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Wysłany: Sob 11:09, 05 Mar 2011 Temat postu: adviser marketing Trendy tokenism- Older models ar |
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Tom Ford set the intonation in New York with a comeback that dared all the rules that have accompanied themselves to the fashion-show system. You won't be seeing pictures of the hilariously enjoyable, quite small representation laid on at Ford's behest by Lauren Hutton, Rita Wilson,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Julianne Moore,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Beyoncé and more women of great private manner until December, when he's ready to unlock the video to agree with distribution of clothes to his cache. Suffice to say, he is backing fantastic trouser suits and glamorous eveningwear conceived by him to approach one old scope up to 75, with the insurance that however you prefer, you'll still be dressing it in 10 years' time. Expensive it will be, but more to the point is the information and the emotion.
The fall of the heel
Ford's breakthrough is mirrored by other designers in their own ways. Famously, 53-year-old Inès de la Fressange walked back on to the Chanel scene with her insouciant grace not one iota diminished - and a huge smile on her face. A Mexican wag of clapping emulated her walk approximately the Grand Palais last week, in a show that also included Stella Tennant, Carolyn Murphy and Natalia Vodianova, aka the working-mother contingent. That put things back in kilter for Chanel: she never imagined her clothes for ingenues.
I loved the pert deco, geometric chain-link bracelets at Fendi. If you can ransack out everything in enamel, counterfeit ivory and ebony, or even Bakelite - the Twenties incipient - you're laughing. Something to look in in generosity marts and marts this autumn.
Trendy tokenism? Older models are here to reside - Telegraph
Fashion is a variety of charm, let us hope that
'Trendy tokenism? Older models are here to stay'
Designers have finally realised that women of all ages are their purchasers, says Sarah Mower.
Related articles In pictures: Chanel spring/summer 2011Older models: the golden girlsThe fashionable fashion forwardIs Tom Ford really anti the Internet?The definitive navigate on shoes for the new seasonSeventies icons re-channelled for autumn
But this time I've come back energised by the visions flashed before me in the past few weeks. There were times when it really felt like fashion was fun afresh, not in the madcap-kooky-carnival sense - which annoys me - but because it stirred up real complicity with the spectators. Chiefly, that's because some of fashion's strongest leaders have finally granted that women of all ages are their clients, or should be.
Pared-down heels at Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2011 Photo: AFP/GETTY
Fashion people tracking home behind 23 days of consecutive exposure to shows tend to be in the grip of curious cerebral states. One is fashion Stockholm syndrome, where, having been captive to designers' crazy ideas for so long, victims prattle about next year's "trends" in language which makes no sense to anybody alive in the here and immediately. Another condition - commonly mine - is like that of a jailbird of war: cursed pleased to be out and in sane society at last. And then there's common rage with most designers' perverse inability to communicate with women and show us matter that makes us feel happy and living.
Simply red
One thing I won't be buying: biker. I know I've stirred up trouble in this col before by saying grown women shouldn't do biker jackets; may I amplify your rage by saying please don't even meditation about studded, slashed,?safety-pin-festooned denim jackets? I understand a designer-ified Euro-version of it came?out in Paris, but?that doesn't make it?right?for the inappropriately elderly.
BY Sarah Mower |13 October 2010
The most major thing about that accident is that everybody finished it laughing, applause and chatting. I can't remember when that last happened - certainly not at anybody of Ford's rather far,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], intimidating shows at the starting of this ten-year. But he's had time out of the free-for-all, and what he's come back with feels people, and right.
Instead of having to watch non-stop pageants of seven-stone teen zombies for three weeks, there were enough (gasp!) capable women, working mothers and grandmothers out there wandering the runways to make it feel like "older" wasn't just a newness corner du saison . Trendy tokenism is distinct thing to watch out for, but I base myself convinced, for once, that designers would not be up to their old cheats. Watching so many familiar personalities in so many shows, I felt my hackles going down for the 1st time in 5 annuals.
One evolution for next season is a fundamental reappraisal of proportions. Basically, stuff is happening with hemlines and skirt-formations which is going to have an impact on shoes: they're going to have to alteration. I'd prevaricate if I said there were no more crippling platforms; it's fair that all the asset that weren't platforms saw so much fresher. The smooth sandals at Lanvin, Bottega Veneta and Stella McCartney delivered a delightful sense of practical, urban chic. The other way to go, if you absence heels, is to choose something stripped down to its most abbreviated arrangement of sole and svelte belts - the arrange of thing Tomas Maier did at Bottega Veneta, Phoebe Philo at Céline, and Marc Jacobs (with a witty heel) at Louis Vuitton. The boot industry is heavily invested in the humongous "statement" shoe,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but the only?statement I want to make?next season is: "Look, I?tin walk."
Nicolas Ghesquière did the same entity in his own access at Balenciaga. Looking because individuality, he did street-castings because alternative-looking juvenile girls, and brought back some "old friends". OK, Gisele isn't?anyone's mind of everywoman, but she's a lusty, active persona, and while she strode out,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], it was a thrill apt watch her vigorous womanliness. Since Ford, Lagerfeld and Ghesquière are 3 of the maximum influential forces above planet form, it's to be wished other designers pick up their lead. Some have to be led along the nose to understand namely "inclusiveness" might be extra tricky for them (they bleat about specimens not fitting non-standard bodies, for whether it wasn't their job to do the sewing changes), and realise that it's merely working to be to their own behalf. Women favor discerning someone more closely resembling normality and agreeable humour in fashion shows. It wins us over.
Biker jacket at Balmain spring/summer 2011
Link bracelets by Fendi spring/summer 2011 Photo: EPA
Biker blues
53-year-old Inès de la Fressange at Chanel spring/summer 2011
Linked in
We are in the near future go into a full-on Seventies revival, which is OK with me, because, happily, I was right there in the thick of it. One consequence is that it's going to be a big moment for glammed-up make-up and hair, which, of course, can be adopted ahead of the Marc Bolan satin jackets and Angie Bowie trousers hitting shops next spring. Make-up-wise, the glossy lacquered look has made me want to buy lipstick. One purchase you won't repent is a flattering shade of ruddy, with hook?luster to match.
I'm not saying no designer ought put their clothes on young models - if you're young,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych],[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and your target is young, that's valid. It's just that it's great to see senior fashion governors, whose affair is based in selling to women over 40, finally loosening enough to confess it. As long as they truly have internalised that idea, I'm looking amenable to what's to come.
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