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25 years of London Fashion Week - Telegraph
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25 years of London Fashion Week
We relive the unforgettable moments of London Fashion Week, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year.
BY Phong Luu |16 September 2009

Kate Moss hikes in Stella McCartney's debut show in 1995; Prince plays at Matthew Williamson in 2007; and Katharine Hamnett is queen of the political tee in 2003

"When the British do youth, innovative vogue, they often do it best." Scratch the appointment and this thumb memorandum, which emerged in Drapers' London Fashion Week report in 1986, is timeless. London, more than its counterparts, has always thrived on innovation and there have been abundance of core-shakers in its history. Throw celebrities,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], royalty and politicians in the mingle and London has fashioned some memorable memories since the whole entity started in 1984. As it celebrates its 25th anniversary this annual,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], we relive the show-stopping moments.
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1984
The British Fashion Council brings disparate designer exhibitions beneath one body in the chief, and London Fashion Week is connate. The synthesis of genius generates a hum. Championed by Lynne "Ab Fab" Franks, designers included Betty Jackson and Ghost, but one stood out - John Galliano. "Galliano's graduate show was stunning - a free spirit," remembers Joan Burstein of Browns, who snapped up the plenary collection for her boutique.
1985
Cult label Bodymap's hand-on-mouth institutions wow in London yet shock others. "Barbie Takes a Trip Around Nature's Cosmic Curves", with its wacky lighting, and even wackier clothing - sour prints and rubber-look swimsuits -proves to be ahead of its time.
1986
Royalty, politics and fashion converge (no for the final time) as Diana, Princess of Wales and Margaret Thatcher attend the shows.
1987
Vivienne Westwood returns afterward a stint in Paris and, leaving no mistrust where her loyalties lie, shows her monarchy-inspired Harris Tweed collection, featuring caps, corsets and tartans.
1988
Naomi Campbell models in Jasper Conran's spring/summer show. That year, London-born Campbell becomes the first black model on the cover of French Vogue.
1989
Workers for Freedom win at the relaunched British Fashion Awards.
1990
A new decade, a current mood. Eighties excess caved in to minimalism, as watched in Rifat Ozbek's White Collection, a volte face from colourful kaftans to palette-cleansing neutrals.
1991
"Everything is so homogenised," cult designer Pam Hogg once complained. Trust her, then, to rebel with bright,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], firm bodysuits.
1992
Alexander McQueen floors editors with his sublime debut. "Here were capelets made out of crows' plumes, tailcoats with thespian sihouettes. The designs were radical, disturbing and viscereal at the [link widoczny dla zalogowanych] of while savor meant sleek and minimal," recollections Harriet Quick, fashion traits director of Vogue. "McQueen's language is life, decease, sex, religion - he's a true great."
1993
London's ranking as the maverick of fashion weeks is concreted with the launch of NEWGEN, a platform for up-and-comers. McQueen and Clements Ribeiro are the first to be earmarked as hereafter design superstars.
1994
Hussein Chalayan explosions onto the scene with his lofty concepts, executed with a precision framing on the captious. His "After Words" collection in 2000, with its wooden table-cum-skirt, sealed his reputation as London's earliest visionary.
1995
Frenzied scenes ensue as Kate Moss walks in Stella McCartney's graduate show. Kylie Minogue too takes a whirl on Antonio Berardi's catwalk in a cleavage-revealing ruddy clothe.
1996
Betty Jackson's favourite memories of 1996? "When Yasmin Le Bon opened my autumn/winter show. Before starting down the catwalk she asked my gopher whether he could see her knickers. Shocked, he confirmed they were apparent, which resulted in her whipping them off, saying: "Hold these, I'll be behind." Needless to mention, he was needless for the recess of the show, but it demonstrates Yasmin's absolute brilliance."
1997
The opener to a successful debut? Having famous pals walk your shows. Enter Matthew Williamson, by with Kate Moss and Helena Christensen. "His debut show, 'Electric Angels',[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], was imaginary," recalls Bridget Cosgrave, buying director at Matches. "It was a combination of vibrant colours which, at the time, was quite new and saw extraordinary."
1998
"I remember my first 'proper' women's show in 1998," says Sir Paul Smith. "I was so nervous as I had merely made presentations in Paris."
1999
Her first show was cried "Daddy, I Want a Pony", to which the fashion pack choired, "Luella, we want you!" Her blend of punk and prep wins an instant following with London's hip, young audience.
2000
Victoria Beckham sways her access down Maria Grachvogel's runway in green satin hotpants. "Absolutely petrifying," says Beckham.
2001
The Prince of Wales presents the Designer of the Year prize to Alexander McQueen by the British Fashion Awards. In his days on Savile Row, the designer had famously scrawled an expletive inside 1 of the Prince's jackets.
2002
London melodramas swapsies with New York so the show dates don't fall above the premier annual of 9/11. US Vogue editor Anna Wintour attends to show her gratitude, giving a thrust to the city.
2003
Katharine Hamnett, who famously wore a "58% DON'T WANT PERSHING" T-shirt to meet Margaret Thatcher in 1984, returns with "STOP WAR, BLAIR OUT".
2004
Fashion Fringe launches. The emulation nurtures cutting-edge designers with ingenious instruction and funding.
2005
Gareth Pugh finally fills the creative void left by McQueen et al. A flamboyant showman, Pugh's first show sees latex masks and padded coats sculpted from black PVC.
2006
He opted for neon shines when black was in and did figure-hugging when full-flowing ruled. Christopher Kane's first collection should have failed; instead, he is hailed a star.
2007
A year crammed with highlights, but Matthew Williamson's return show from New York stood out for one huge cause - Prince's impromptu solo. "All dignity was relinquished as I, and many others, stood, camera-phones pointed at the fable, dancing and applause favor idiots," says Jo Elvin, editor of Glamour.
2008
Mark Fast shows knitwear tin be sexy. "My first memory was showing at the Central Saint Martins MA show at London Fashion Week in February. It was such a great time backstage surrounded always the chaos. This city is so exciting to show in."
2009
Burberry, Matthew Williamson,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Jonathan Saunders, Pringle, Clements Ribeiro - this year's line-up has the BFC clapping its hands with glee but also throwing them up in despair, as it goes out how to accommodate all the big names. Nevertheless, it's a big coup - and one which ambition certainly bring many memories.
London Fashion Week starts this Friday,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], london fashionweek.co.uk

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