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[link widoczny dla zalogowanych] Maria Luisa at Printemps
For two decades, designers have ruled the roost at department stores. But a mark new attempt at Printemps is giving authority back to the shopkeepers.
The Paris department store, a lustrous Christian [link widoczny dla zalogowanych] instance of France’s Belle époque from its gilded roof to its decorative fa?ade,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], has not only been restored to its sometime reputation by its new owners, who bought Printemps from PPR in 2006.
The Italian Boretti group, owners of the La Rinascente stores, also has put an exceptional retail collaboration at the center of the refurbished interior. While the sales floors - three dedicated to cutting-edge accessories - have been opened up and overran with light, the real revolution is written in ebony-and-ivory lettering on the second floor upstairs: ”Maria Luisa.”
The 2 words currently emerge on the store’s street-level skylights,tory burch flats Top Awards in Shoe Design_1683, with their displays of fresh, youth designer fashion and a witty take ashore Manolo Blahnik [link widoczny dla zalogowanych], shown by the end of leashes favor little poodles, trotting backward a ”Parisienne” mannequin.
Maria Luisa Poumaillou has been a French fashion fixture since 1988, while she opened a boutique that brought the international slant of this female of Venezuelan origin to a city resting on its haute couture laurels.
The Maria Luisa boutique and its satellite stores, based in the currently chilly Rue du Mont-Thabor, are a rare multi-brand operation in a fashion era prevailed by the huge names. Taking a muscular point of view,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], questing out the brightest and constantly barely known designers, Maria Luisa, for she is universally known, broke the stranglehold of the prestigious fashion houses.
Now she is act the same at Printemps, where at the center of the designer floor her in-store boutique is ringed by the big names, from Dolce & Gabbana to [link widoczny dla zalogowanych].
”My account will alteration - but there is a consciousness of freedom, while the inside has a more intimate boutique feeling,” says Maria Luisa, whose approximate is described as ”radical neutrality.” That method the names of the moment, designers who excite fashion feeling like the British, Christopher Kane and Marios Schwab; the Americans, Ohne Titel and Proenza Schouler; and the French, Charles Anastase and Nina Ricci.
But the boutique also spreads further its confines and includes a 1st capsule accumulation designed by Maria Luisa herself, who was wearing as one interview a gleaming blue overcoat selling at (EURO)280, or almost $410, which she describes as ”having not vanity at always.”
Paolo De Cesare,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], president of Printemps, explains the background to this initiative,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a boutique branching out in the heart of a fashion floor.
”The big problem with a department store is that you can’t sell new designers with authority - they obtain lost on the floor,” says the executive. ”We believe it is our character to send up what is new in fashion so the whole is bigger than the sum of its parts. The big brands can look behind themselves. And we broke another rule. We brought shoes to this floor!”
The executive was referring to Manolo Blahnik [link widoczny dla zalogowanych], which Maria Luisa says have never ahead ”been in a department store in the whole of Europe.” For the shoe display, as for the entire project, she displays her enthusiasm for fashion, from the edgy luxury of Haider Ackermann to the streamlined sleek of RM by Roland Mouret to the abundant color and elaboration from Manish Arora.
Behind the transformation of Printemps is Maurizio Borletti, the chairman of the Borletti team and its La Rinascente stores in Italy, which have been remodeled as theaters of fashion.
The group invested (EURO)70 million - ”which is huge,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych],” Mr. Borletti says - equitable for the first period of the Printemps revamp: (EURO)30 million for the historic fa?ade and (EURO)40 million for the inner. So distant, that has by far averaged creating a central atrium, allowing light to stream onto pearly marble surfaces, and visually prologue up 3 accessories floors, including the lower floor class.
The American/Canadian architectural group Yabu Pushelberg has brought an multinational see and modern accessibility, meantime the sales areas still focus on upscale leather goods, fine jewelry and watches.
Mr. Borletti pronounces himself pleased that the controversial transformation of the cellar floor a pair of annuals antecedent has not reduced sales - rather the inverse; and that the chief floor figures are up, even with its boutiques for high-end designers still beneath construction.
The Maria Luisa boutique is to open officially [link widoczny dla zalogowanych] [link widoczny dla zalogowanych] Saturday. On Nov. 12, along with the vacation windows, there ambition be the official inauguration of the 14,000-square-meter, or 150,700-square-foot, facade renovations – which required, surrounded additional items, 20,000 pieces of gold foliage.
Spring will penetrate the opening of the main floor - with renovation of the rest of the extensive store, classed as a historical memorial, dependant on the success of the first stages.
Mr. Borletti takes an objective look at department stores over the last 20 years, when, he said,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], they ”didn’t have a clue” about how to knob the ascend of big designers.
”The brands took power - they were fed up of having brands misused,” says Mr. Borletti, describing how stores abandoned their role as merchant and, as a result, lost their conscience. It also was an economy disaster for stores because the brands became the retailers and took most of the profits.
”So let’s fight behind!” says the administrative, annotating that a partnership tin go well ”as long as the brands aren’t ravenous.” Yet he admits that the division store ”is a big machine” and namely integrating fashionable designers ”at a definite stage of development” can be shifty. Hence the new in-store boutique.
”It was momentous for us when we chose Maria Luisa to prefer someone with a very strong point of view on all our collections - a director’s alternative of what our store is,” says Mr. Borletti. ”She loves the dare and it widens the horizon, detecting brands we not considered of. We ambitioned her to be a free thinker - but with feet on the ground.”
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