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 Wysłany: Wto 10:24, 22 Mar 2011 Temat postu: The career of Vivienne Westwood |
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The career of ,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych][link widoczny dla zalogowanych]
In 1982 Women's Wear Daily described London as ‘a teeming fashion market-place buzzing with ideas. They bounce off the streets and out of the prodigious art colleges'. That year Westwood and McLaren launched their second collection,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Savage (Spring/Summer 1982), which featured geometric American Indian patterns. Although the balance of Westwood and McLaren's creative partnership was changing,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Vivienne still consulted Malcolm. She said at the time: ‘He edits my work,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], sorts out my story, unscrambles my programming and gives me an avenue of approach'. The third collection,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Buffalo (Autumn/Winter 1982–83,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], also called Nostalgia of Mud,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], featured sheepskin jackets and big swirling skirts. Westwood exhorted her fans to ‘Take your mother's old brassiere and wear it undisguised over your school jumper and have a muddy face'. Like many of her fashion ideas,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the bra worn on the outside was soon picked up by other fashion designers. Westwood was now on the Paris fashion circuit and Buffalo was followed by Punkature (Spring/Summer 1983),[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a futuristic interpretation of Punk. It introduced the tube skirt, one of Westwood's most successful and commercial designs.
In 1984 Westwood moved briefly to Italy with her new business partner,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Carlo D'Amario (today Managing Director of her company) and most of her ‘ready-to-wear' is still produced there today. She designed Hypnos (Spring/Summer 1984) which featured sleek garments made out of synthetic sports fabric in fluorescent pinks and greens,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], anticipating later trends in sportswear. The Hypnos collection was selected to be shown in Tokyo at Hanae Mori's Best of Five global fashion awards.
By the mid 1980s,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Westwood's self-taught tailoring skills converged with her increasing interest in British traditional clothing in the humorous Mini-Crini and Harris Tweed collections (Spring/Summer 1985,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Autumn/Winter 1987–8 The crini was a short,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], full skirt with plastic boning,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], inspired by the 19th-century crinoline and also by a ballet performance which Westwood had seen. She said: ‘Even if you're on a crowded tube,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], it always springs back after being squashed'. For summer, it was made in printed cotton with polka dots and stripes and teamed with cotton twin sets by the long-established British company John Smedley.
The winter version was in bright red Harris Tweed,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], hand-woven in the Western Isles of Scotland. It was worn with a matching jacket with velvet collar, inspired by the traditional double-breasted children's coat. Westwood said ‘I'm not really trying to be English — you can't avoid it, it's what you've absorbed. I do have fun knowing that I am doing it. I very much enjoy parody and this English sort of lifestyle … and I really am in love with the fabrics'. She has continued to draw international attention to British fabrics,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], including tartan,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], throughout her career and was awarded the Queen's Award for Export Achievement in 1998. The Harris Tweed collection also launched the corset,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], which Karl Lagerfeld described as one of the most important fashion ideas of the 20th century.
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