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Wysłany: Pon 11:01, 20 Gru 2010 Temat postu: gucci Giles Deacon- The unlikely lad of fashion - |
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Given that this is his first collection for Paris fashion week,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], shouldn't he be over there flouncing around demanding the tulle be more tulle-like, not sitting scoffing chocolates and showing off a dress for the Cadbury bunny?
When I meet him in London he is in the middle of promoting a new chocolate by Cadbury. He has, he tells me proudly, designed a dress for the Cadbury bunny. He shows it to me. It is tiny - a piece of frilly, tiered, polka-dotted fun. A scarf of the same print will be available from John Lewis. 'The polka dots resemble the chocolates,' he says, looking almost serious. 'I had so much fun doing it. You can't imagine.' No, I tell him, I can't imagine. 'But the bunny will be wearing it on billboards all over the country!' he says, offering a handful of these new Cadbury Nibbles - a chocolate button full of caramel. I can't help but raise an eyebrow. What on earth persuaded him to do it, apart from money, that is? Or maybe it was just the money? 'Noo,' he says, shaking his head. 'I did it because I love the Cadbury bunny. Everyone loves the bunny, don't they? She's so classy and choosy. She's quite a demanding client.'
'Next week?' I squeak. 'But that's such a big deal.'
BY Lucy Cavendish |01 December 2009
She describes Deacon as being 'an enigma at college'. 'He was very good at being alone,' she has said of him, 'which made him hard to go out with.'
'I know,' he says, leaning towards me in a conspiratorial fashion. 'Last night the French minister for culture held a reception for me and it was terribly grand and people like Lulu de la Falaise were there and I had no idea how posh it was going to be. I was very touched.' Very touched, he says, just like that, as if his aunt had made him a particularly nice sweater.
Deacon says that,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], as a child, he spent large amounts of time on his own. 'I stared into pools of water, that type of thing,' he says. 'It always makes me sound as if I was sad and lonely, but it wasn't like that. We lived in the middle of nowhere and my sister is much older than me [she is now a riding instructor], so that was what I did.' During his countryside sojourns, he discovered a love of drawing. 'Yes, I drew everything,' he says. 'Insects, birds, wildlife, everything, really.' In fact, it was his drawing of a budgie driving a Rolls-Royce that, many years later, got him the job of heading up the ailing Bottega Veneta leather house. 'It's gone down in history that drawing,' he says, laughing. 'But I do have loads of others.'
Then he tells me, nonchalantly, that actually he has just returned from Paris. 'I'm back there this afternoon,' he says. 'My first ever Paris catwalk show is next week.'
He does dress some pretty starry clients, though. Thandie Newton and Kristin Scott Thomas often appear at awards ceremonies in his designs. 'They both represent everything I love about women,' he says. 'They are intelligent and beautiful. They work but they are also wonderful mothers. I find women like that very inspiring.' He has also dressed Princess Beatrice, Scarlett Johansson and Gwen Stefani.
He also has some rather groovy connections. His friends include Katie Grand and her husband, Steve Mackey, once the bass player in Pulp, as well as just about every funky person on the block. Agyness Deyn often models for him. For his first collection, in 2004, Karen Elson, Linda Evangelista and Karolina Kurkova took to the catwalk for him, as a favour to Katie Grand. This instantly put him in the league of Matthew Williamson and Stella McCartney, both of whom had Kate Moss model in their first collections. He often sees the designer Luella Bartley, who was a few years below him at Central Saint Martins,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and her husband and children. This summer Pixie Geldof hot-footed it from Glastonbury to Deacon's studio in east London to don an orange doll-like wig to model his resort collection.
Well, lots of things about Giles Deacon could be considered weird. For example, what is a great big gentle giant of a man who counts gardening as a hobby doing in the neurotic world of high fashion? He laughs. 'It's mad,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], isn't it? If someone had said 40 years ago when I was born that I'd grow up to be a fashion designer with my own label and workshop, I'd never have believed it.' Yet he is a much-acclaimed designer. He was named Designer of the Year in the 2006 British Fashion Awards. His collections have never been less than fêted. The week after our interview he wowed the Paris audience by starting and ending the show with the heiress Daphne Guinness parading in his cute 1960s-inspired prom dresses in neons, pastels and metallics. After the show Deacon said, 'You have to make it more concise here [in Paris]. I just wanted to do more real-life, obtainable clothes.'
What's fascinating about Deacon is that he is a heterosexual man working in a world dominated by gay male designers. This means, I imagine, that women slightly swoon when they meet him. Aged 40, he is tall (6ft plus) and quite bulky in a muscular, worked-out sort of a way. He wears dress-down clothes - jeans,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], T-shirts,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], trainers. The only signs that point to him being remotely artistic are his trademark aviator-style specs and short cropped hair. He also has the most beautiful voice, a gentle Cumbrian burr (he grew up in the Lake District), which just edges into camp occasionally, hardly surprising given his chosen career. He also laughs a lot. In fact, as he chats away he sounds slightly like a smoothed-out, chilled-out version of Wallace from Wallace & Gromit.
If Giles Deacon weren't such a huge lumbering man I'd fold him up like one of his beautiful designer scarves and pop him in my handbag. He is just so lovely. This is what everyone will tell you about him. Lynn Barber, who once interviewed him, said he was 'normal, nice, friendly'. The fashion editor and stylist Katie Grand, who used to go out with him many years ago, says 'he is fantastically talented and always slightly subversive'.
I never believe people who say that, anyway. "Oh, my granny had great style." I just like doing it and I enjoy working hard. I go to work at 10am and I'm still there at 8.30pm. We get the wine out then, but anyone who is successful and tells you they don't work hard is lying.'
Keeping in touch with what is going on is one reason why he loves London. 'It blew my mind when I first moved here,' he says. 'It was 20 years ago and I spent my life hanging out in Soho. There were great characters back then. I'd just watch them, fascinated. I'd follow Francis Bacon around. Sometimes he was charming. Sometimes he was vile. For me, this boy from the Lake District, it was utterly compelling.'
I ask him where his desire to design comes from? 'Don't know,' he says. 'My parents weren't into fashion. I didn't have an eccentric granny who mixed lace mantillas with tweed.
'I like using all sorts of people,' says Deacon. 'I remember once going and hanging out in a goth nightclub. I was very into that look. I am more interested in people's attitude than someone who is a perfect face. Every time I walk the streets of London I see someone who interests me. It doesn't matter how old they are.'
Giles Deacon: The unlikely lad of fashion - Telegraph
Amy says: “I’m sporting a vintage find from my favorite clothing
store “Foot Loose” here in Granville. The color is delicious. “
Giles Deacon: The unlikely lad of fashion
How did a gentle giant from the Lake District who counts gardening as a hobby - and is, more to the point, straight - come to be darling of the fashion world? The designer Giles Deacon explains all to Lucy Cavendish
'I have good people working for me over there,' he says calmly. He is showing in Paris rather than London or New York, where he has shown to date, because he recently won the French Andam award, which means he has been given lots of euros (100,000) and a catwalk slot. 'It's very important for me to show there,' he says. 'It's reaching a new audience. It's like doing a dress for Cadbury. It's all about reaching new people. Does that sound weird?'
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I ask him how much such a dress costs. 'They start from about £4,000,' he says. 'They could go up to maybe £20,000.' He says he loves doing personal fittings but draws the line at wedding dresses. 'With a one-on-one, women often know what they like. I have one very rich client who always wants her dresses super-short. It makes me raise my eyebrows because I am a prude but that is her prerogative. With wedding dresses, it's different. The bride wants X and the bride's mother wants Y and it becomes a nightmare.' For the rest of us, though - the ones who can't afford upwards of £4,000 - Deacon also designs a collection for New Look. 'For me it's about the democratisation of fashion,' he says. 'When I started doing the deal with New Look, certain people in the industry thought I shouldn't do it. They said it would cheapen my brand, but I don't agree. I'm proud of the result. I think everyone should be able to afford fashion. Why not?' Does it keep him in touch with a wider and more vibrant section of society? 'Yes, it does,' he says, nodding fervently.
He's not totally without his quirks,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], though. He might, for example, team a graphic sheath dress with a pair of Swarovski-crystal-encrusted inflatable armbands. In 2008 he did 'femme fatale in a gothic disco', meaning red dresses, spidery gothic sweaters and a billowy Hammer Horror hooded cape or two.
He went to Barnard Castle School in County Durham, which didn't suit him. 'I didn't do well at all at school,' he says. 'It just didn't do it for me.' He had no idea what he wanted to do with his life and was in danger of drifting Lord knows where. Did his parents worry about him? 'No,' he says. 'My mother was a housewife. My father worked in the agriculture business, but they were very encouraging about everything. When I said I wanted to do art they were very supportive.' He ended up, by chance, at Harrogate College of Arts. 'I got a call from someone I knew who lectured there telling me there was a space going and why didn't I take it, so I did.' He loved it. After completing his foundation course he went on to Central Saint Martins, where he met Grand, who is now a consultant at Louis Vuitton.
After graduating in 1992 he went to work for Bottega Veneta and then Tom Ford at [link widoczny dla zalogowanych]. However, after one season he left. 'I got ill,' he says. 'I got an infected salivary gland and it just got worse and I found myself collapsed in bed. I started to think long and hard about what I really wanted to do.' The result was that he hocked everything he owned and took out a loan to start his own label. The rest is history. His first collection was so fêted it launched him on the international scene. Now, he says, he couldn't be happier. 'I have a licensing deal with the Italians,' he says. 'It's given me a cash injection and my designs are now selling all over the world. Although when I say "mine" I mean "ours". I could not do what I do without all the people who work alongside me.'
Then it's time for him to go. He takes his specs off and rubs his eyes. Given that I can't tuck him away in my handbag, I suddenly feel compelled to ask him about his personal life. Does he have time for one? He smiles enigmatically. 'I have one,' he says. 'But as for the future,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I have no idea what will happen. Just work. I know it will be about work.'
'I can be very modern and experimental.'
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